FAQ’s

ASPHALT

Q1: Our water shut-off cap (on the driveway) is loose/detached/missing. What should we do ?

Don’t be concerned and thank you for informing us. With your permission,we will notify the municipality’s Department of Public Works. They will do a service call to correct the problem. This will ensure that the issue has been corrected, prior to applying asphalt to the driveway. This will not delay the repaving process. The municipality will correct the issues within a maximum of 2-4 weeks.

Q2: What is the procedure to repave the driveway ? …and what is the projected schedule?

A2: On average we will remove the existing pavement, within 2 weeks. Following removal, CENTURY PAVING & CONSTRUCTION utilizes several important steps to ensure a good and long-lasting installation. 3/4″ crusher run is applied over the surface of the entire driveway. The entire surface area is then compacted, using a heavy paving roller. In areas where a paving roller cannot be used, a mechanical tamper and a hand tamper will be utilized. At which point the driveway is leveled and graded. After compaction, leveling and grading, the 3/4″ crusher run is allowed to settle for approximately 3 weeks. Regular use of the driveway is strongly encouraged. Heavy vehicles, rain (and even watering the driveway) are beneficial for promoting settling during this time period. Every driveway has several “soft spots” , usually due to subgrade (soil) sinkage. It is imperative that these areas be allowed to settle, prior to the next step. Prior to a new asphalt application, 3/4″ crusher run, is once again applied to the driveway. The driveway is then compacted, again. 3/4″ crusher run is reapplied until no sunken areas exist. The driveway is then compacted, leveled and graded, again. A final compaction, of 3/4″ crusher run, follows. This entire process, described above; is the most important factor, in ensuring pavement durability and it’s ability to support the weight of vehicles on the driveway’s surface. Pavement failure will not occur, following proper compaction.

Q3: How long will my new driveway last ?

A3: The driveway will last 20-35 years.

Q4: How thick will the asphalt on my driveway be ?…and how is it applied ?

A4: CENTURY PAVING & CONSTRUCTION, will ONLY apply asphalt using a spreader machine. This machine is instrumental in laying,an even and uniform coat of asphalt. It is designed to lay the asphalt, perfectly. The dispersed hot asphalt-mix thickness will be a MINIMUM of 3″ inches thick. The compacted thickness, will be 2.25-2.75 “. Thus, the spreader compensate for any slight aggregate base variation, during the asphalt-application process.

Q5: Do we need a permit for repaving ?

A5: A building permit is not required for the replacement of an asphalt driveway in Vaughan. However; if, the project involves excavation, we will contact “Locate” to ensure that we do not damage underground cables (cable/telephone) or utilities (gas/electrical), during the excavation.

Q6: What is the best time of year to install an asphalt driveway ?

A6: The paving season, typically begins in mid-April and ends in November. Paving can be done at any time, weather permitting.

Q7: What would be the asphalt thickness for residential and commercial properties?

A7: For residential properties, 2.25″-2.75″ of compacted asphalt is optimal. For commercial properties, it is usually around 4″ of compacted asphalt . Remember, the most important factor is the sloping, grading and compaction of the base material (3/4″ crusher run). The base must be prepared properly. This is the main factor for a durable and long-lasting driveway.

Q8: Is there a guarantee on my new asphalt driveway?

A8: Absolutely. Asphalt and any other new installation, is GUARANTEED IN WRITING.

Q9: Would you recommend sealing a driveway after paving?

A9: We DO NOT recommend that you seal your driveway, prior to one year following paving. Sealing your asphalt too soon will cause the asphalt to soften. There are several types of sealant available. We highly recommend a petroleum-asphalt sealant. This type of sealant will actually penetrate and bond to your asphalt. Avoid acrylic and coal-tar emulsion sealants.

Q10 How soon can I park on my driveway, following paving ?

A:10 Usually, 5 days are required.

Q11: What precautions should I take with my newly paved driveway ?

A11: We suggest that you exercise special caution for the first 1-2 years, following paving .It will take asphalt 1-2 years to fully cure and harden. However; asphalt will soften during hot weather. Please, try to avoid the following : * Never turn the wheel of your vehicle, when it is stopped or parked. This action will leave marks on the asphalt. * Avoid placing heavy objects on your driveway, such as motorcycle kickstands, heavy flowerpots and ladders. *Avoid parking in the exact same spot, every time. * If, you are away for an extended period of time (vacation); Please, try not leave vehicles on the driveway. * Park 1ft. away from the edges of the driveway. * Always avoid any contact between petroleum products and asphalt. This includes : Gasoline, motor oil, transmission fluid, break fluid and radiator anti-freeze. These products will act as solvents and will damage the asphalt.

Q12: My asphalt and adjacent (connected) interlocking stone (walkway, curbs or other retainers), both sank. Can I replace the asphalt and then have my interlocking stone leveled, at some point in the future ?

A12: This is not advisable, for many reasons. First, the new asphalt would be of a different height, then that of the interlocking stone. This would create a safety concern. A trip-hazard is created and water/ice would gather in the sunken area, between the two surfaces. Aside from additional safety concerns, water and ice will compromise the structure of asphalt by penetrating beneath it. Furthermore; attempting to remove interlocking stone , which is attached asphalt is difficult. The interlocking stone, would need to have the asphalt removed from it….and the asphalt would need to be cut, creating a gap between the two surfaces. It would be much wiser, to level the interlocking surface to the proper height, followed by the installation of asphalt. This would make the overall task more practical. Furthermore a good seal and retainer would be created, between the two surfaces.

INTERLOCKING STONE 

Q1: Will some sinkage occur with interlocking stone ?

A1:   In years following an installation, there will always be some degree of sinkage. Following the completion of your Interlocking stone installations, 2 year guarantee will keep you well protected. If any significant sinkage occurs, contact us and we will service the issue FREE OF CHARGE.
Q2:   Can we use road-salt on paved surfaces (including: interlocking, concrete and natural stone).
A2:   Salt and it’s effects are harmful to all surfaces, to different degrees. We recommend that snow be removed, as much as possible. Thus, limiting the necessity for salt use and that of other de-icing agents (Sodium chloride and Calcium chloride). Furthermore; the constant thaw & refreeze effects of de-icers, will further deteriorate surfaces, over time.
Q3:   Should we seal interlocking stone, in order to protect it ?
A3:    Absolutely. Sealing interlocking, natural stone and concrete surfaces will help to keep them protected. We do not recommend sealing any (interlocking,concrete or natural stone) surface, prior to 3 months after installation.
Q4:   What is polymeric sand ? How is it better from regular jointing sand ? …and isn’t regular sand cheaper ?
A4:   Water, frost and ice can have harmful effects on interlocking stone surfaces. These are some of the leading causes of surface instability. Polymeric sand is a coarse, dried sand that contains glue and rubber polymers. We install polymeric sand by sweeping it between interlocking stones. Water is then applied twice, over a 15 minute period. The polymeric sand will then begin to bond and cure. This usually takes about 24 hours, in dry weather. The polymeric jointing sand is highly resistant to weeds, insects and to water and frost damage. Furthermore; it creates a strong bond between interlocking pavers; thus, restricting movement and sinkage. This is a great product,which is practically maintenance-free. We highly recommend it. The benefits certainly outweigh the costs. We guarantee this.
Q5:   Can interlocking stone pavers separate from each other ?
A5:    Pavers shouldn’t separate from each other. This may occur due to improper base materials, faulty compaction, lack of polymeric sand or due to the lack of edge restraints and other retaining structures (which should always border interlocking stone).
Q6:   What materials do you use for the base of interlocking pavers ? How deep do you dig ?
A6:   The recommended base material is 3/4″ crusher run and sometimes, 1/2″ clear gravel as a sub-base. 6″ of base material is used for walkways and 10″-12″ for driveway. Often base material already exists.  In this case, it becomes possible to slope, grade and compact the existing materials. Finally, a bedding course of limestone screenings or construction sand is installed and leveled, prior to installing pavers.
Q7:   Can we keep some pavers for future use ?
A7:   Absolutely. We highly recommend it. Over time, paving stones can be damaged. Replacing a paver is easy if, you have an identical one. If, your interlocking design consists of several paver sizes; we can provide you with all of them, for future use.
Q8:  Which brand of interlocking stone is the best ?
A8:   All available brand are roughly the same. So, just pick the one that you like.
Q9:   Will the interlocking stones’ colours look exactly like the ones in the brochure ?
A9:    If a paving stone is infused with one colour (only) it will closely resemble that of the brochure. For mixed-colour pavers; no two stones look exactly, alike.  Similarly, different skids will have slightly different proportions of colours. This is not something to be concerned about. Overall, these slight colour differences will make the overall design more natural and appealing.
Q10:   Can we go to the supplier and look at different pavers and designs.
A10:    Absolutely.  We can accompany you to our supplier, which has a great display area of pavers and designs.
Q11:    What would go with my house ? Can you pick the colours and the design for me ?
A11:     Unfortunately, we can’t make that choice for you. We can suggest different colours, multiple patterns, configurations and designs. However; the final decision is your’s and that of your spouse.
Q12:    My spouse doesn’t care about colour and design. Can I just pick them ? Would that be, alright ?
A12:    That has never worked, yet. It’s best that we meet with both of you, in order to discuss and plan your next outdoor project.

NATURAL STONE 

Q1:    Are all stones of this type the exact same ?
A1:    Natural stone refers to a huge variety of products. We can show you many samples and colours. However; natural stone from even the same source , will always differ somewhat, in colour and texture. Nevertheless; all stone is hand selected from the best, most consistent sources for durability, consistency and beauty. These products have been used for thousands of years as building materials and decorative enhancements.
Q2:   Can you bring us some colour samples ?
A2:   Absolutely. We have brochures with pictures of natural stone. We also have some actual stone samples. Our supplier has a great displays of natural stone design and a massive stone yard. We can accompany you there and you can personally view and choose the type of stone and design that you like. This visit to the supplier, will make your decision process a lot easier.  It will also allow you to make a more informed decision, given so many available and visual options.
Q3:   Can any type of stone be installed outdoors ?
A3:   Some types of stones are better suited for interior application. These stones cannot withstand weather extremes and will crack, crumble or fade outdoors. There are other considerations. For example, some multi-colour slates will “run”, upon contact with water.  Other outdoor stones are more susceptible to flaking, when exposed to water, ice and temperature extremes. Choosing the right stone is crucial. We can help.

CONCRETE

Q1: Can temperatures affect the installation of concrete ?

A1: Temperature extremes make it difficult for concrete to cure properly. On very hot days too much water can be lost rapidly by newly formed concrete. Similarly, if temperatures drop too low, hydration will slow down drastically. In both cases, concrete can become more brittle. If the temperature falls below 7 degrees, finishing concrete is not advisable. Through the use of 4mm plastic sheeting and by spraying with water, concrete can be made to cure properly.

Q2: How thick will you pour the concrete for the walkway/landing/patio ?

A2: Concrete for these surfaces will be 4″-6″ thick. A driveway will be 7″-8″ thick. However, the most important factor for structure duirability is the presence of a good and well compacted aggregate (gravel) base. This is what will evenly support the immense weight of the above concrete structure. For a walkway/landing/patio, the thickness of gravel should be 4″-6″. A driveway will require 9″-12″ of gravel. Furthermore; it is very important to check what the subgrade is made of and adjust the project accordingly. A firm subgrade is just as important as a good gravel base.

Q3: Is steel mesh necessary ?

A3: Absolutely. 6″ 9size of grid opening) steel reinforcing mesh must be layed, before pouring concrete

Q4: How strong will the actual concrete be ?

A4: 3500 PSI concrete can handle pressures as high as 3500 pound per square inch, without failing. However: an important part of structural strength depends on the support provided to the structure by a good base. The thicker the sub-base and base, the more load the slab will be able to support.

Q5 : What other factors should We be concerned about ?
A5:   Factors such as sloping and drainage away from concrete surfaces are of important concern.  Water should not be allowed to remain at close to the base of a concrete structure.
Q6: Are “locates” required for the installation of a concrete structure.

A6: It is very important to mark buried cables and utilities to avoid damaging them. Excavation without “locates” can have very costly results. We will contact the appropriate agency to receive all clearances, prior to excavation.

Q7: How soon can I use the driveway after concrete has been poured ?

A7: We recommend that 72 hours be allowed to pass, before attempting to drive a vehicle onto a driveway.

Q8: How far apart would you make saw cuts in the driveway ?

A8: Control joints need to be 8′-12′ apart.

  • NO DEPOSITS REQUIRED ON RESIDENTIAL ASPHALT PAVING.
  • NO DEPOSITS REQUIRED ON NEW INTERLOCKING STONE INSTALLATIONS.
  • NO DEPOSITS REQUIRED ON MOST INTERLOCKING STONE REPAIRS.
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